Back in Our Happy Place — First Day in Tortola, BVI

Back in Our Happy Place

We’re back in our happy place — Tortola, BVI — and this trip started about as smooth as a calm morning at anchor.


The calm before the adventure — rows of catamarans waiting to head out into paradise.

Our early morning flight from DFW went off without a hitch. We zipped through CLEAR + TSA PreCheck in under a minute at Terminal E, hopped on Skylink to Terminal A, and boarded our Miami flight right on time. With a tight connection ahead, we were relieved to find the tram running smoothly at MIA — landing at Gate 20 and departing from Gate 60 gave us just enough time for a quick stretch and a smile.

Flying Into Tortola — The Smart Way

The flight to Tortola was equally uneventful, which is exactly how we like it. We’ve learned to always fly directly into Tortola. Many still prefer the St. Thomas route, but for us, that’s an exercise in patience — taxi to the ferry, an hour-long ferry ride to Road Town, then another taxi to The Moorings marina. We’ll pass.

If we’re ever delayed, we’d much rather be in Tortola, Miami, or San Juan, where we can wait it out with a rum punch and a view. And if you ever get stuck in Tortola, Trellis Bay and The Loose Mongoose are just a five-minute walk away. If you get stuck at the St Thomas airport, it’s a cattle car with extremely limited food options.

Arrival and Check-In

When we landed at Beef Island, Wheatley Transportation was waiting for us — coordinated through The Moorings, but as always, I’d confirmed with Rico directly just to be sure. That small bit of planning always pays off.

We did hit one small snag: our boat Dauntless wasn’t ready, so we were reassigned to Catatude. Same model, maybe even a bit newer. Everything worked perfectly except the watermaker — no big deal for just the two of us. It simply means we’ll stop once or twice for water and I’ll get to practice my docking skills.

Our Temporary Ride — Catatude. Not Dauntless, but she’ll do just fine! Everything works except the watermaker.

Provisioning and Departure

Our boat briefing was at 9 a.m., so in theory we could’ve left by 10. But I had a couple of morning video calls, so Liz volunteered to handle provisioning solo. Between Riteway, Steakation Butchers, and The French Deli, she nailed it.

Once stocked and fueled (both us and the boat), we finally left the dock around 2:30 p.m.


Liz soaking in the sunshine as we set out from Road Town toward Norman Island.

Our destination: The Bight at Norman Island.

Calm water, blue skies, and nearly empty mooring fields — mid-week perfection

Mid-week, low-season bliss greeted us right away. The beach in front of Pirates Bight was stunning and nearly empty. Out of nearly 100 first-come-first-serve mooring balls, only about a dozen were taken. We relaxed, swam, and then enjoyed dinner at Pirates Bight — delicious food, great service, and the kind of setting that makes you stop and appreciate where you are.

The reward for starting mid-week in low season — quiet, beautiful, and peaceful.

After dinner, we sat on the upper deck, sipped wine, and watched the full moon reflect off the water. It was one of those perfect evenings where the world feels quiet and life feels simple.

Ending the day the right way: relaxed, grateful, and surrounded by the soft glow of paradise.

We’ll linger here another day or two before heading up to North Sound of Virgin Gorda to meet Sean and Sarah and their fun crew of six. For now, it’s just us, the sea, and the sound of halyards tapping in the breeze.

Author’s Note

We love starting our BVI adventures mid-week during low season. Fewer boats, less noise, and more of that laid-back island magic. The Bight was calm, the beach was empty, and the rum punch was cold — exactly how it should be.

Over the years, we’ve also changed how we explore. We now prefer to visit fewer places so we can enjoy each stop more deeply — no rush, no schedule, no checklist. Paradise isn’t about checking off boxes; it’s about slowing down and truly soaking it all in.

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