We left our villa in Panzano in Chianti just after 9:30 AM, cruising through Tuscany’s winding hills in a BMW X4 xDrive 20D. The views? Spectacular. The roads? Twisty, narrow, and just the kind of rollercoaster that makes you appreciate German suspension.

After about 46 km, we rolled into Florence — a city that somehow gets more majestic and more chaotic the closer you get to the center. And then, things got real: we entered the ZTL.

🌀 Wait, What’s a ZTL?

ZTL stands for Zona a Traffico Limitato, Italy’s way of saying “You probably shouldn’t be driving here unless you know what you’re doing.” These restricted traffic zones are meant to keep historic city centers pedestrian-friendly. If you don’t have prior authorization or your garage doesn’t report your plate to the city, expect a surprise fine in your mailbox months later. 💸

We parked at Garage Alfani by Mouviamo, which does report your license plate to the authorities — as long as you tell them when you arrive. We paid €14 for the first two hours, €7 for every hour after that, with a max of €45 for the day (plus €20 if you want a car wash because, let’s face it, you’ll need one after this drive).

🎥 Cue the GoPro

On the way out, we captured it all on the GoPro — narrow alleys, scooters darting past, and me channeling my inner James Bond (if Bond ever had to parallel park while dodging tourists with gelato).

The drive back was much smoother. The city had emptied out, the chaos had died down, and I finally had a moment to unclench my jaw. But earlier? Around the Duomo? White-knuckle all the way.

🛞 Stats from the Day:

Distance: 92 km Max Speed: 138 km/h (not in the ZTL, promise) Moving Time: 2h 40min Total Time Out: 5h 23min Average Speed: 35 km/h Emotional Toll: Still processing

So, would I do it again? Maybe. But next time, I might bring an Aston Martin, a tuxedo, and someone named Q to hack the ZTL cameras. 🕶️

Until then, enjoy the GoPro footage and remember: driving in Florence is less “Italian Job” and more “Survivor: Renaissance Edition.”